Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Arrival in Chiang Mai

We got to Chiang Mai on Thursday morning after a night spent on the incredibly old and sorta creepy night train. The weather was beautiful when we arrived at the train station and we just knew we'd love it here. Chiang Mai has a really low-key and relaxed vibe to it, not like Bangkok at all. We met our driver who picked us up at the station and drove us to Eagle House, the guest house we were staying at that night.

arrival at the Chiang Mai train station!



Chiang Mai is Thailand's second largest city but only has a population of 150,000 people. The "old city" is in the center surrounded by a moat. The rest of the city spills out in all directions outside the moat. Most people here ride motorbikes and don't wear helmets or obey traffic signals! Sometimes there's quasi sidewalks but usually you're forced to walk in the drainage gutter at the side of the road.

Chiang Mai Photos

here are some photos from our first couple days in Chiang Mai


the river with mountains in the backround



it didn't take long for sarah to find her favorite beverage they call "coke light"



this guy's image is everywhere. i think he's running in an upcoming election. i hope he wins!



me at the Good View restaurant



sarah at the Good View



artsy photo we both really like



a Thai Wat



you may recognize this photo from the header!



a random street in Chiang Mai

Night Train

So after two somewhat luxurious days in Bangkok (hanging out by the pool and when the heat became too overpowering retreating back to our air conditioned room), it was time for the night train up to Chiang Mai (approx 13 hours). Checkout was eleven and the train didn't leave until 6pm. We figured that the easiest thing to do would be to catch a cab to HuaLamphong Train Station, check our bags, and explore the city for the day. Our hopes were dashed as soon as we spotted the 'luggage check', about a hundred bags heaped in a pile around a bored looking clerk. Though I'm sure in his boredom, a thief attempting to pilfer bags would be a welcome intrusion (and something for him to do) I think we may have been more worried about actually having to sort through that pile later and try to find our bags.





So we settled onto the dusty tiled floor of the main hall among other groups of similarly disheveled travelers, mostly Thai. We had five hours to kill at this point and the train station itself offered little in the way of distraction...until two girls, the oldest couldn't have been more than six, lingered nearby us, shyly, smiling and then turning, covering their faces and laughing. They were both barefoot with pageboy haircuts and mischevious smiles and at first, we were charmed. Ten minutes later, the charm had worn off as the older one wagged my stolen flip flop in front of me (as I helplessly grabbed at it) while the other collapsed into peals of laughter.


waiting at the Bangkok train station






Several hours later, both flip flops securely on my feet, we boarded the night train. We had our own private room (first class! with A/C!) but alas it was suffocatingly small and a bit dingy, but that only added to its charm. Exhausted at this point, we stretched out and watched rain splatter across the train windows as Bangkok slipped further and further away, until soon we were rattling through the countryside, a moon hanging low.







We fell in and out of consciousness, still chasing the tail of jet lag but always coming up short. At one point, I remember a small woman entering our berth with a plate of food, quiet as a whisper, bowing as she placed a tray of saran-wrapped food before us. It was still there when we woke up in the morning. Surprisingly, 13 hours flew by and before we knew it, the jungles and mountains outside our window eventually gave way to Chiang Mai, the ancient Lanna capital of Thailand. We had arrived. We were home.


Sunday, April 27, 2008

Hello from Thailand!

Greetings from Thailand and welcome to our blog! We've been here for about a week but it seems a lot longer than that. After 24 hours of traveling from New York to Thailand (with a stopover in Abu Dhabi), making the trip to Chiang Mai via the night train from Bangkok, we're glad to say that things are slowly becoming more and more normal. We already have a ton of strange tales from our brief time here. We've stayed in about four hotels/youth hostels, met countless funny/weird characters, and have seen more giant lizards and bugs than a person should see in their entire lifetime.

Thailand seems like a pretty funny place, and it'll be crazy to spend an entire year here, but Chiang Mai is an incredible, low-key city with tons of things to do.

We hope you enjoy our blog!




Here are some photos from our first few days here:


me in the Abu Dhabi airport



Sarah loves middle eastern Twix



our hotel in Bangkok



view from the Bangkok hotel window



tropical paradise...



me and ronnie in Bangkok!



the Thai king is a very beloved man. His picture is everywhere, including the mall



Sarah with giant lizard in the background

Bangkok

Hello all! We have been in Thailand for about a week now but only now have we had sufficient internet access (and time) to actually launch the blog, With that said, we kind of have to retrace our steps back over the past week to re-cap everything that has happened. So I will start with my own perceptions of our time in Bangkok...

We were thoroughly exhausted after about 24 hours of travel time and once we landed in Bangkok, we were ready to begin the next phase of our adventure (the phase that didn't have to do with in-flight movies, lack of leg room, and fitful attempts at sleep). Upon arrival at the airport, we were almost immediately whisked away by our hotel's car service, en route to Amari Atrium, an immaculate tower looming over eastern Bangkok. There was a brief interlude between airport and car when we were greeted by the wall of oppressive Bangkok heat, but before we could digest the muggy warmth of the evening, we were ushered into a car with all of our bags, back into a sealed world of air-conditioning and complimentary bottled water. We careened through the Bangkok night and into the bowels of the city, catching glimpses of the night markets, motorcycles, and street stands - while the skyscrapers of modern Bangkok loomed in the distance, lit up like jewels, reaching toward the sky, untouchable by the mere mortals we saw around us. The city was a blur of blinking lights and exhaust fumes and pulling into the Amari Atrium entrance felt opulent and grand, almost like more than we deserved.

Our hotel was in a somewhat isolated part of town and by that I don't mean devoid of activity or people, but of the touristy areas of Bangkok. Up on the eleventh floor, we could press our noses against the chilled glass of our window and look down on streets bustling with sputtering motorcycles, fumes and wavy heat, panting streets dogs lying on their sides blinking against the sun, sizzling grease in pans, the light glinting off the aluminum and metal of cars and storefronts. And with that glance, we could turn and retreat, back into our air-conditoned limbo, balancing precariously between two worlds.

Our first foray into the city came on Tuesday morning, after a night of stop-and-start sleep, with the final waking time somewhere around 4am. We ventured out early and made our way down the streets on crumbling, non-existent sidewalks, careful not to be sideswiped by the cacophany of traffic roaring by. Crossing the street in Thailand is a tragi-comedy. The tragedy being that it's near impossible and the comedy lying somewhere in all of that. Whenever we could make a clean break, we would, just narrowly missing a car, motorcycle, or tuk tuk (motorized rickshaw) careening past. It was sticky and hot, the unrelenting sun beating down on our faces, arms, and the backs of our necks. But in the excitement of a first day anywhere, all hardship was lost on us, our bags bouncing against our sides, shielding our eyes against the sun.

The subway system in Bangkok belies the outer chaos of the city. Chilled and immaculate, sleek and modern, efficient machines deposit plastic token in lieu of yellow Metro cards and escalators hum quietly, up and down, as passengers slip in and out of air-conditioned trains, an entire functioning universe functioning deep beneath the guttural, choking bustle and heat of the city above us. And then slowly, you emerge, one hand on the arm-rail of the escalator, ascending back into the white heat of Bangkok. The heat afixes itself to you, like a blanket over your shoulders, your entire body, until it gradually dissolves into normalcy.

We found our way to Lumphini Park...

Lizard in Bangkok

During our first day in Bangkok we decided to head to one of the city's parks. It was pretty early and we had some time to kill before the mall opened so we could get our international cell phones. The park was really beautiful (minus the green water of course), with palm trees, flowers, and lots of cats (really weird) walking around. We decided to walk over to one of the gazebo-type things overlooking the pond since it seemed like a nice view. Right away we noticed this thing swimming in the water - it was really big and didn't seem like fish... That's when this creature swam to the edge of the pond and this is what we saw...



Gross!!!

This lizard must have been about three feet long. After walking around the park a little more, we discovered these huge lizards were everywhere! I was a little freaked out since they got pretty close to people and I had no idea how fast they were. Since then, I've been mistaking the ends of leaves and tropical-looking plants as lizard tails.